Okay, so it wasn't totally self-guided. I had the assistance of Lonely Planet, Korea. And although a few easts should have been wests, it was a grand evening. After all, what better way to get to know a city that to walk in it? Saturday afternoon, after the morning calm tour, I enjoyed walking a bit around Itaewon, stopped by the market, then enjoyed a short rest for a bit at the apartment. Around 5, I headed back out, armed with my Kindle Lonely Planet, ready to see more of the city.
I started off by taking the bus to Seoul Station -- the huge transfer station as seen in the picture above, where the high-speed rail, buses, and subway all meet. I made my transfer from bus to subway and was on my way to Jonggak station--just two stops away.
This Galleria sits next to Seoul Station. No, I'd had plenty of shopping at the iPark Mall. I opted not to enter.
Here's a shot of the buildings, and more key, the advertisements, near the Galleria and Seoul Station. These huge-screen electronic billboards are everywhere. The first night I taught, I kept getting distracted with one I could see out of the classroom window. Yes, it's a bit like Times Square everywhere, but the city is about progress, progress, progress. And fast, fast, fast. And do, do, do. Thus, the bright lights are not that odd, once you adjust to the perspective.
Arriving at Jonggak, I exited the subway, being directed by LP to take Exit 4. (Not only did I have that direction, there are FAB maps in each station giving information about where each exit led. This, sadly, is sorely lacking in the NYC subway stations.) This first area of interest was the traditional bell pavilion of Bosingak. During the Joseon dynasty, the bell (now on display at the National Musuem) was struck 33 times at dawn (for the 33 heavnens in Buddhism) and 28 times at sunset (for the 28 stars that determine human destiny). Again, I most loved the juxtaposition of this so-ancient and the so-modern.
I then made my way to the Cheong-gye-cheon. Here, a restroed steam runs through the city. Crowds gathered around, enjoying the day, the water, and the wonderful area. This city understands the importance of public spaces. 
I continued toward the west, still enjoying the stream and seeing the people along its banks. Families with children enjoying the day, couples flirting, children delighting. It was wonderful.
A crowd gathered in one spot as giant bubbles were formed, thrilling children who pointed, giggled, and chased.
And then I came upon the "origin" of the stream at Cheong-gye Plaza, where the giant pink and blue scuplture Spring stands.
I particularly liked the waterfall.
Also near the Plaza is this statue of Admiral Yi Sun-Sin, a naval commander held dear to the Korean people. (Just north of this statue is one of King Sejong who invented the Korean alphabet: Hangul. ("A wise man can acquaint himself with them before the morning is over; a stupid man can learn them in the space of ten days.") (Having worked on learning Korean these past two weeks, I must say, the alphabet was a wonderful success. I can read it. Granted, I don't know what I read means yet, but anyone can learn to read it. The language is logical. If you know me, you know I like that.)
(JW proudly told me that he traces his family lineage through Yi Sun-Sin. (or was it the king? Oh dear, I fear, I do not recall which.) And although you may think doing such is silly, as one who traces her family to a (collateral) ancestor who was at the Alamo, I get it. It's good stuff. (and kudos with many kamsahamnidas to my Aunt Donna for doing all of that family history research through which I can learn so much about that!)
There was a beautiful display about the Korean War set up on the sidewalk between the Cheong-gye Plaza and Seoul Plaza. It painted the US in a wonderful light, which was so nice to see overseas. (More on this in a later posts as I reflect about my teaching here.)
City Hall is under construction -- and grand, indeed, it will be. The large grassy area is a great gathering place for citizens -- to celebrate (the announcement tonight of S Korea hosting the Winter Games in 2018), to protest and demonstrate (as heard one night from my classroom, about a block away and eight stories up), and to simply gather to enjoy a concert (as these folks were doing Saturday evening).
I just had to snap this shot of this Dunkin Donuts (for my friend James) as seen next to this ancient gate to palace grounds.
I continued on, now walking southeast of City Hall, coming across a wonderful collection of bronze statues. The lone female spoke to me in a particular manner. I found her wonderfully emotive. Gorgeous.
Ah, and here is my goal: Seoul Tower atop NamSan. (NamSan = South Mountain. Thus, it would indeed be wrong to call it NamSan Mountain.) Yes -- I planned to be at the top of that before dark.
The first step was continuing my walk. Uphill. I was glad, as I got to the top of the walking part of the hill to have been working on my incline intervals on the treadmill!
(No, it's not San Fran, but it sure isn't Jax either. This, though, is why I love the Jax bridges: you can live in a flat city yet still get some incline in the great outdoors.)
I did not, though, walk all the way up NamSan. Instead, I first took this funicular (free) to the cable car. The cable car (around-about $5) then took me to an area just about fifty steps upstairs to the base of Seoul Tower.
Having arrived at NamSan, I learned I could travel up to the observatory for an even greater view. Well, all day had been particularly muggy---humid and foggy. I had been up here the night before, with a gorgeous view, but I knew too that I was here now, so I might as well check things out.
I paid my fee, got my ticket, and stood in line for the elevator. (This seems to be a theme this summer -- views from up high -- as I also went to the Top of the Rock for a late-afternoon view of NYC and a night view of city lights from the Empire State Building back in early June.) Up top, sadly, the fog did harm the view. Still, you could tell just how high up we were.
And to be honest, although a trip up to the base of Seoul Tower is totally worth it, I would not again pay (in money or time for elevator (which had an extreme wait going down)) to go up to the observatory. I don't regret that I did, but once, for that, was plenty.
The view is just as gorgeous from the base of the tower.
Back at the base of the tower, I walked up more steps to a platform area and heard "Boom! Boom! Boom!" Everyone rushed to the side of the platform, then ooohs and ahhhhs errupted as we watched a spectacular fireworks display from afar. The US Army was celebrating Independence Day at the main post, Yongsan. We were several miles north, but it was nice to see---especially being out of the States on this holiday
After enjoying the display, and treating myself to a scoop of German Chocolate at Cold Stone Creamery, I began my descent. I stopped off part way down to try to capture some of the city lights. Alas, the fog hid much of the fantastic view, but you can get an idea.
The walk down was far---and steep. Fortunately the steps down were along a lovely, lighted path. I learned later, though, that the way down involved over 600 stair steps, followed by another 76 steps from the base parking lot to the street. By the time I made it two-thirds down, my knees protested. And my calves complained for another day after that. But what a great walk. Again, Seoul understands parks, public spaces, and making things beautiful.
Here's a map of the route that I took. Thank you, Lonely Planet, for the suggested route (which I followed up to NamSan, but diverted from to head back to Seoul Station instead of back to Jonggak). And thank you, Seoul, for a lovely evening and a lovely city.
The walk was grand. The city was beautiful. And it was a wonderful day off.
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